Pope John Paul II and Krakow

06/21/2012 10:09

If you’re a fan of Pope John Paul II, a trip to Krakow can be very much like a holy pilgrimage. If you’re not, it is still informative, fun, and maybe even inspiring to see where JPII lived prior to assuming the papacy in 1978. His influence and presence certainly seem to be everywhere. Your first taste of John Paul-mania will come immediately upon landing at, of course, John Paul II International Airport. Here, a youthful and energetic Karol Józef Wojtyła worked in the baggage claims department, frequently calming the angry mobs with bread and fish, as they furiously demanded return of their lost travel gear. Well, maybe not. What is true, though, is that Wojtyła did travel to Krakow as a young man and began a wonderful relationship with the city, a relationship that lasts even until today, seven years after his death.

If you literally want to walk in JPII’s footsteps, you’ll unfortunately need to start with a car (may I suggest a Pope Mobile). Wojtyła was actually born in Wadowice, about 30 miles from Krakow. He probably came to Krakow as a child, but didn’t really move here until he was in his late teens. When he did come, however, his stay in the city lasted for around four decades. He studied here at Jagiellonian University. As a student, he lived across the Vistula River on Tyniecka St. in a neighborhood called Dębniki. With the outbreak of the war, the student scene became increasingly dangerous, as the Nazis took over Jagiellonian. Eventually, Wojtyła enrolled in the seminary in Krakow, an endeavor no less risky. Upon being ordained, he served as a priest near the Old Town, as well as a lecturer at the university. He was a true academician, speaking around a dozen languages, and authoring plays, poems, and political as well as religious discourses.

During his time in Krakow, Wojtyła lived in several places around town, including two on Kanonicza St. These are arguably the most significant of all his residences, as they are just two, and three doors down from our favorite restaurant, “Smak Ukrainski,” where Ewa works. :-) Eventually, JPII would become the Archbishop of Krakow, moving five minutes toward the main square into the Archbishop’s residence near the St. Francis Church. As Archbishop, he oversaw the magnificent cathedral on the grounds of Wawel Castle.

As we spend time in Krakow, it is nice to keep in mind that we are walking the same small streets, visiting many of the same places, and experiencing the city so much loved by a man who, in countless ways, influenced his country, eastern Europe and without a doubt the entire world. 

Two houses where Bishop Karol Wojtyła lived on Kanonicza St.