Obwarzanki and Zapiekanki

05/23/2012 08:30

Obwarzanki and zapiekanki (obwarzanek and zapiekanka, singular) are two Polish treats that I like to think of as a marvelous carb-laden way to start the day, as well as finish it. In the AM, if you’re feeling a bit overwhelmed at the thought of the schedule ahead, there’s nothing like two doughy obwarzanki to give you an excuse to head straight back to the hotel and sleep the dreamy sleep of the bloated. During a late-night drunken outing, by contrast, nothing beats a hot zapiekanka to get you energized just enough to stumble to your bed, where you can, much like earlier that morning, sleep things off. I absolutely adore both of these foods and recommend them without reservation.

I like to think of the obwarzanek as the original form of what we call bagels. This makes absolute sense, seeing that Krakow historically had a long tradition of Jewish culture. They do have a slightly different taste than what we're used to, and I have to say that I wasn’t immediately impressed the first time I tried one; they are not as chewy in the center as a good New York bagel. Nevertheless, once I had eaten a few I began to realize that, much like Polish pierogi compared to American pierogi, they are simply different. In the end, I honestly prefer each equally, and often find myself pining for a warm obwarzanek here in Lock Haven, where my closest breakfast option is a crappy Dunkin Donuts’ “everything” pseudo-bagel. Like the real NYC bagel, a good obwarzanek is initially boiled and then baked. It should be crispy on the outside, but soft on the inside, much like my taste in women (Again, I don’t even really know what I mean by that). The NYC variety, however, usually seems to be a little more chewy and “meaty” on the inside. Traditionally, obwarzanki come with the upper part half-coated with poppy seed. They also come with a salt-covered option, or sesame seeds in place of poppy seeds. My tastes are decidedly in favor of poppy. One of my favorite lunches as a student in Krakow was to buy several obwarzanki and eat them with two smoked mackerels. My girlfriend at the time would not kiss me for hours. I didn’t care.

A zapiekanka is an equally popular Polish fast food, served up in only the finest railway and bus stations, kept fresh and hot by the loving, incubating care of a 250-watt heat lamp. In form, it reminds you of a French bread pizza: a long and toasted half baguette. In taste, however, replace the tomato sauce with sautéed mushrooms, add a Polish variety of cheese and, if you’re daring, ketchup (don’t knock it until you’ve tried it). Like a pizza, you’ll enjoy the tough love of a good zapiekanka when the sizzling cheese and greasy mushrooms fuse themselves somewhere between your hard and soft palate. They’re so good that you’ll want to keep the wound alive for at least a day or two as a prickly reminder of your first zapiekan-kiss.

When it’s all said and done, there are other street foods as well in Krakow, but none with the allure and tradition of obwarzanki and zapiekanki. While you can fill yourself with shashlik (kebabs), doners (gyros), gofry (waffles) or lody (ice-cream), you will only look like a true krakowiak when your smile is loaded with chunks of poppy seed stuck between your teeth.

Obwarzanki are also a cheap and filling way to hold you over between meals.

We'll need to have a discussion on adding ketchup to European pizza, or in this case, zapiekanki. I can't believe I'm saying this, but I am definitely in favor of it.